MEXICO: TAXCO

 March 13, 2018

We drove from Cuernavaca to Taxco, a distance of about 89 km (55 miles), and by the time we got there, it was definitely time for lunch.

Arnold took us to a fantastic restaurant, Del Angel Inn, that was perched on a hillside and had balcony dining, which allowed us a spectacular view of  this hilly city.  The sign for the restaurant notes that it is "Exquisitely divine!", which it was.

And look who the hostess was!

 

It's a pretty good likeness, don't you think?

This little gem was on one of the restaurant walls. Cute, huh?

Anyway, back to the views. (More about the food in a future post.) I could eat a lot more meals with panorama in front of me.

Silver mining used to be the main industry of the city, but now mining has been replaced by tourism, and it is easy to see why. The Secretary of Tourism named Taxco a Pueblo Mágico, or "Magic Town," in 2002, the third community to be so designated. 

Across the way we could see El Christo Panoramico, or the Christ Viewpoint, on which stands a statue of Christ the Redeemer. It was constructed in 2002, and although it is only about 10 feet tall, it can be seen throughout Taxco.

There are cute details in every direction . . . 

. . . there is a dark side of life as well:

Perhaps the most important structure in Taxco is the Church of Santa Prisca, built between 1751 and 1758 under the direction of Do José de la Borda, the same uber-wealthy guy who built the fabulous Borda Garden in Cuernavaca. This church was his way of thanking God for the massive wealth he had pulled out of the region's silver mines, and it was designed specifically so that his son Manuel de la Borda, a Catholic priest, could conduct mass there. Seven years to build a church of this magnitude was record time for the 18th century!

For almost 50 years after it was built, it was the tallest building in Mexico. 

I especially love the blue-tiled cupola behind the bell towers.The words encircling it are "Gloria a Dios en las alturas y paz en la tierra a los hombres de buena voluntad." ("Glory to God in the highest and peace on earth for men with good will.")

Like so many of the colonial structures, it too was damaged in the 7.1 earthquake that hit this area in 2017 and was undergoing repairs while we were there.

We saw at least two monuments to Taxco's wealthy benefactor, Don Jose de la Borda. The square near the Santa Prisca is called the Plaza Borda. He stands in the square, the owner of practically everything he sees. I think this fountain graced with his disembodied head is also near--maybe on?--Santa Prisca.

The church is an excellent specimen of the highly ornate style of Mexican Baroque architecture and is considered to be one of Mexico's grandest and most beautiful churches. It is on Mexico's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage inscription, and UNESCO calls it "one of the most important baroque works of art in the world, in which the best painting, architecture and sculpture techniques of a period were brought together." 

The central part of the facade, just under the window and above the main entrance, is a magnificent relief of the baptism of Jesus by John, with God the Father and the Holy Spirit (as a dove) witnessing the event from above, along with a hosts of angels, one who holds a robe for Jesus.

Okay, let's follow Arnold inside!

Don't forget to greet the saints flanking the door on your way in. (They look a little bit like they are conducting a heavenly choir.)

It's hard to describe the interior of this church. It is so SO SO baroque! Nine Churrigueresque (such a great word) floor-to-ceiling altarpieces embellish a single nave and transept, and three others can be found in a the chapel of Jesus Nazarene

This is the main altarpiece.  As you can see in the photo above, access to it was blocked off, and the sacrament table was moved in front of the divider. (I assume they were doing some renovation or repair work, and I'm grateful we were able to go inside!) Massive, intricately carved pilasters frame the elaborate retablo behind the altar. No space is left unadorned. It is Baroque on steroids--more gaudy than reverential.

The dome above the main altar looks downright homely by comparison.

This looks like the "Mary Altar" that is usually found to the left of the main altar. Note the crucifixion scene at the top, partially obscured by a chandelier.

Closer view:

So much gold, so many figures--it is extravagant, to say the least. This two retablos look the same, but they are different. Can you spot the differences?

There is the Trinity at the top of this painting, presiding over the scene below.

Walking around Santa Prisca almost overwhelmed my ability to process.

That is not to say I didn't enjoy it, however. Being a bit overwhelmed now and then is not a bad thing. I think a person could spend days--months--picking out all the intricate details of each retablo. My favorite parts were the putti, or fat little angels, and the other painted figures that filled so many of the spaces.

I also loved the organ, positioned in its traditional place over the main entrance and behind the pews.

It sits atop this entrance:

Every church in Mexico has its version(s) of the Virgin of Guadalupe. We saw a silver and a gold version in the Church of Santa Prisca.

Back outside, we look a little shadowy, definitely lacking the gleam of the gold interior of Santa Prisca.

Further along in our stroll through the city, we came across this man doing his homework. As a college English teacher, I couldn't help but point out his spelling errors.

He didn't seem to appreciate my help.

Who is he, by the way? Does anyone know?

When in Taxco, one should support the local economy, and in Taxco, the economy is all about silver jewelry. Let's go!

I tried on a Frida favorite, but it was just a bit out of my price range.  I settled for something similar, but it was three rows of silver beads rather than ten.

How about a little mariachi music while you shop?

The former convent of San Bernardino of Siena was originally built by the Franciscans in 1592, but it had to be rebuilt after it burned down in 1804. However, we weren't really stopping by to examine its austere interior.

Behind the convent are three fascinating statues, which is what Arnold wanted to show us. During Easter Week, members of some local religious brotherhoods re-enact medieval rituals. Known as penitentes (penitent ones), they wear black hoods with eye holes and the men are bare to the waist. The rituals are still performed in Taxco.

This one, called a flagelente, carries a 100-pound cross.

Occasionally, he will hand his cross to a helper before lashing his own bare back with this metal-studded whip.

El Encruzado (The crucified one) has a 40- to 50-pound bundle of thorny blackberry canes strapped to his arms. Ouch.

Women as well as men are allowed to be animas (souls). Their ankles are wrapped in chains and they carry candles as they walk in a hunched position, which gives them their nickname of "the bent ones." 

 

Enough of that. Here are a few more iconic views of this lovely hilly town.

Yet another place we would love to return to and spend a few days.