Tuesday, July 12, 2022

ECUADOR: FAREWELL GALAPAGOS ISLANDS, HELLO CUENCA (A WALK THROUGH THE UPPER CITY AND A VISIT TO THE MARKET)

 March 26-27, 2022

The Alya crew had one more wet landing on Bachas Beach (Santa Cruz Island) planned for the morning, but I was hesitant to get wet just before leaving so I didn't go. I wish I had as Bob said it was one of the best walks of the trip. He was most excited by the fact that they actually saw a flamingo--just one, but what a setting!

I should know better than to miss an opportunity. 

After they got back, we were returned to the tiny Galapagos Airport, where we waited for several hours for our flight to Guayaquil. We were reminded not to neglect wearing a face mask, maintaining social distance, and washing our hands because "The pandemic is not over."  Darn. We had hoped it had disappeared while we were in the wild.


Our group of four couples split up at the Guayaquil Airport, with two couples continuing to Quito and then home, and Bob, Terry, Geneil, and I continuing our adventure. We were picked up by a driver who didn't speak English and who was not terribly interested in trying to understand my attempts at Spanish. He drove us to Cuenca, a drive we thought would take 2.5 to 3 hours, but that he said would take 5, and that actually took 5.5 hours. Terry looked up the route on his phone and saw a long way and a short way to Cuenca, the shorter way having tolls. I tried to clarify with the driver that we wanted the shorter one and would pay the tolls, but he said there was only one road. That really bugged us. (We later learned that the shorter way had been closed since the previous August because of a  massive landslide, so there WAS only one road!)

The road we were on wriggled up into the Andes, hairpin turn after hairpin turn, adding another level to my already annoying motion sickness, but the scenery was beautiful.

Misty clouds settled in valleys carved out in front of rounded hills and pointed peaks, and everything was verdant green. Small villages dotted the landscape, and we saw the occasional cow and chickens.

When we finally got to Cuenca, we were thrilled to discover that our hotel, the Mansion Alcazar Boutique Hotel, was one of the nicer hotels we have stayed in. It looked like it used to be a home. We were on the second floor, and the view from our window was a gorgeous garden. I think our room must have had the best view in the entire hotel.





The next morning our guide Javier picked us up after breakfast and took us on a walking tour of Cuenca. It is a clean, upscale, colorful, artsy city with lots of fun things to look at. Although it is near the equator, it sits at an elevation of 8,300 feet and temperatures are moderate year-round.




This statue represents a local festival where they grease a pole and put gifts at the top. Whoever gets to the top gets to choose a prize. I especially like who I assume to be the mother looking very worried as her child goes up the pole.

Note the trompe l'oeil painting on the side of a house.


The city proper of Cuenca has a population of around 350,000. It's a big place. Because of its rich culture, great weather, excellent food, good health care, and affordability, Cuenca is growing in popularity with expats; approximately 8,000 to 10,000 live here.

I loved our meandering tour. I would have loved more of it!




We happened to be there during a half-marathon. Check out the mother/daughter team wearing capes and their dog in a pink tutu.

Our first stop was the Mercado 10 de Agosto, a bustling, colorful place that every visitor to Cuenca should see. The name refers to Ecuador's Independence Day on August 10, which celebrates independence from Spain in 1809.


The displays are works of agricultural art. Who knew there were so many types of potatoes???

Our guide occasionally bought a piece or two of fruit so that we could taste it. The only thing I specifically remember eating is a small banana--so good!




These chickens look like something out of a Monty Python skit.

Salted fish, a staple . . . 

. . . and fresh fish:

One of Bob's favorites: pulpo/octopus:

Bird's eye view of the beans and rice section:

Food isn't the only thing in the market. Some services, such as tailoring and knife sharpening, are also available.

Punta de encuentro - Meeting point.  It is hard to miss.

OF COURSE we had to eat lunch at the mercado--some kind of soup and a flavor-filled chunk of roasted pig.


On to the main square and heart of Old Town.

2 comments:

  1. Why is the Cultural Center prohibited? I remember once translating some documents for this guy who wanted to retire to Quenca, I hope all went well for him.

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  2. That long drive to Cuenca was hard for me. I'd read that it could be done in 2.5 to 3 hours tops and I felt a little duped. I'd talked with the guide and he never said anything about the closed road. It is hard to have friends along and feel responsible. As with any planning there are things that don't work out the way you plan. I liked Cuenca a lot. I also felt a little duped by the guide as far as pig and guinea pig. I'd let him know we wanted that. He ultimately said we could have guinea pig but there are special restaurants for that. He ordered the pig and it was not what I would have ordered. A little frustrating and not one of our better guides.

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