Monday, August 18, 2025

GERMANY: WITTENBERG

 May 17, 2025

About 50 miles northwest of the sleepy little town of Torgau and also positioned on the Elbe River is Wittenberg, a somewhat larger city with 45,000 inhabitants. A university was established here in 1502, which attracted two important luminaries to its faculty line-up: Martin Luther and his friend and fellow reformer Philip Melanchthon.

Luther's and Melanchthon's portraits were painted by Lucas Cranach the Elder,
the most famous German portraitist of his day, who painted at least ELEVEN portraits
of Luther and over THIRTY of Melanchthon..

Wittenberg is a typical charming German town, maybe even more charming than most because unlike many other German cities of any size, it was spared destruction during World War II. Its religious history protected it from the Allies' bombs. However, it was occupied by the Soviets after the war and became part of East Germany in 1949.



Germany has their own version of "George Washington Slept Here." Two windows in this pretty building are marked with this information: Karl August (1757-1828), who was the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, visited the city in 1820, and Napoleon I, aka Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821), King of France, slept here in 1806 and 1813. 

Tuesday, August 12, 2025

GERMANY: TORGAU

 May 17, 2025

Torgau is a smallish town in eastern Germany on the Elbe River that today has a population of about 20,000 people. Probably its biggest claim to fame is that it is the place where the US and Soviet armies first met at the end of World War II on April 25, 1945. Eventually, Torgau became part of the region controlled by the Soviet Union and known in the United States as East Germany.

But that was not our interest in the city. We had planned a few days in this area of Germany--Saxony--to become better acquainted with the religious reformer Martin Luther, who established Torgau as a key center for the Protestant Reformation. Luther traveled here more than 60 times from his home in nearby Wittenburg to consult with princes and theologians, and Torgau was where he consecrated the first church intentionally built as a Protestant church.

Our first stop was at the Hartenfels Castle, which was built in the 15th century, making it the largest completely preserved early Renaissance castle in all of Germany. 

One of the most interesting things about the castle is that is has a moat surrounding it that is full of greenery and logs rather than water.

That is because the moat is home to two brown bears. This tradition dates back to the castle's origins. After a pause beginning in the 19th century, the bears were reinstanted in the 1950s with a gift from the Leipzig Zoo. Benno and Bea, who are brother and sister, are the latest residents, having lived here since 2013. We only saw one of them, but I can't tell you which one.


Friday, August 8, 2025

GERMANY: A LUFTHANSA AND SIXT NIGHTMARE

 May 15-17, 2025

How we ended up going to Germany this year is a long story that I will tell in a future post, but it has to do with the murder of my grandfather by the Nazis in 1940 and a diligent researcher and writer who cleared up several mysteries, fleshed out my grandfather's past and made him real for the first time for my siblings and me, and arranged to have him honored with a stolperstein. It is a great story.

But all that will come later. For now, suffice it say that my four siblings and I, four of our spouses, one of my nephews, and one of our cousins all converged in the small village of Giengen, our mother's birthplace, on May 20 for a five-day emotional journey into our family's past. Before I get to that, I want to cover several days that we spent traveling in eastern Germany with my sister Chris and her husband Stan.

So back to the very beginning of this trip, which didn't start out well. Prepare yourself for lots of complaining and very few photos. I want to make sure I have a record of what happened, and this blog is where I keep those kinds of records.

We were booked on a Lufthansa flight from Los Angeles to Frankfurt (where we planned to meet up with my sister Chris and brother-in-law Stan) followed by a connecting flight from Frankfurt to Dresden, where we had a rental car reserved. Our initial flight was delayed almost 2.5 hours, which caused us to miss our connecting flight. Delayed flights happen all the time, but what compounded the frrustration was that when we realized we would likely  miss the connecting flight, we first tried to work with customer service via phone to book a new connection fliight. After the FULL HOUR it took us to get to the right person, we were told there were no later connecting flights, even though we could see one online that said it had four seats available. They told us we would have to take a flight the next morning, which was unacceptable because of a tour we had booked and paid for in Dresden that was happening prior to the flight they were telling us to book would arrive. 

The agent finally told us to talk to the people at the desk. When we did that, we were told there were seven or eight connecting flights, all with available seating, that could get us to Dresden on the same day as our original flight, but they would not book one for us because they felt there was a chance we would make the original flight. Believing we had many options once we arrived in Frankfurt, we felt better about the situation and stopped trying to book a new connecting flight.

Our flight arrived in Frankfurt about 15 minutes before the connecting flight to Dresden was due to leave. No one was available to direct us to the connecting flight--we were totally on our own. Of course, it was in a different terminal and we had to go through passport control and security since we had just entered the EU. Chris and Stan had arrived earlier and were sitting on the plane to Dresden, updating us on its status. It was running a bit late, and we ran through the airport, but the plane had pulled away from the gate by the time we got there.

We next went to the Lufthansa Customer Service desk, which of course was in another part of the aiport. There were only two agents working, and we waited for almost an hour before our turn came up. The agent said there were no flights that could get us to Dresden until one that left at 9:00 the following morning. We could only surmise that the agent at LAX had lied to us to get us off his back. Based on a tour we had scheduled in Dresden (and paid 600 euro for) and a pre-paid hotel room that was too late to cancel, and because my sister and brother-in-law were already in Dresden and relying on us for transportation and connection to the tour, that was unacceptable. The agent agreed that our best option if we had to get to Dresden by morning was to drive there. 

We went to the Sixt desk in the car rental area. They said they were able to cancel our Sixt car reservation in Dresden and rented us a car  in Frankfurt and even gave us a nice upgrade for close to what we would have paid in Dresden. So nice!  We picked up a car from them and drove for about six hours to get to Dresden that night, already jet-lagged from the long flight, arriving at our hotel at 1:30 AM. The tank of gas it took us to get there cost an additonal 90 euro, but we thought it was worth it. However, when we got home to California after the trip, we discovered that the other car reservation had in fact NOT been cancelled after all ,and we were charged for both rentals. Of course, Sixt blamed Travelocity and Travelocity blamed Sixt and Bob could never get through to anyone who could help him resolve the issue. 

We got on the road at about 7:00 PM. Luckily there was still some light, and we were able to enjoy the beautiful scenery of rural Germany for an hour or two.



About halfway through the drive when we were desperate for a bathroom stop, the Golden Arches never looked so good.

Another stop at a gas station yielded more treats. I passed up the Schnitzel Box Texas Style in favor of a Magnum Classic. Wise choice, I think.

That gas station, by the say, had the most innovative toilet seat cleaning system I've ever seen.  See a short video here.

Sometime during the manic drive through the night to Dresden, we got an email and a text from Lufthansa informing us that we had been rebooked on the 9:00 AM flight from Frankfurt to Dresden the next day, but as we had worked out our driving plan with the Lufthansa customer service agent, we didn't worry about that. Imagine our surprise when the next day we were notified that our return flight from Frankfurt to Los Angeles in 9 days had been cancelled since we didn't make the flight from Frankfurt to Dresden. That customer service agent who helped us in Frankfurt and suggested that we DRIVE to Dresden did not tell us that our return flight to Los Angeles might get cancelled if we skipped out on the connecting flight. It took another 1.5 hours on the phone to resolve that issue. First we called Lufthansa, who told us to talk to Travelocity, who told us to talk to Lufthanbsa. A Lufthansa agent was finally able to reinstate our flight home, but only after we spent far too much of our precious time on the phone.

We are frequent international travelers, and this experience ranks as one of the worst we have had with an international flight. We understand the flights are sometimes unavoidably delayed, but overall, we were left without clear guidance, faced long waiting times, and encountered unhelpful and untruthful staff. I wrote a detailed letter of complaint to Lufthansa, expecting at least some frequent flier miles and perhaps even a flight voucher, but they brushed off my complaints without acknowledging any culpability on their end. I wrote a second letter, which garnered a curt reply. It's the most dismissive response I have ever had to a letter of complaint.

We really expected better from Lufthansa. 

That's the bad news. The good news is that the rest of the trip was AMAZING, but this experience did leave us with less than loving feelings for both Lufthansa, Sixt, and Travelocity. We will be doing our best to avoid all three in the future.

Monday, August 4, 2025

INDIA, JAIPUR: JANTAR MANTAR, THE CITY PALACE OF JAIPUR, AND GOING HOME

 December 30, 2025

Driving through the urban areas of India is always interesting. I find myself wishing I could see these buildings when they were new, and I wonder who has lived in them and what stories they can tell.


The same goes for the people. Their lives are so different than ours, and yet we find common ground when we talk with them. It is hard for me to envision living in their shoes.

In Jaipur, there was beauty of some kind on every corner.

There was also plenty that made us smile, like this anti-drinking-and-driving signage.

We had a new guide, and our first destination of the morning was the Jantar Mantar, an observatory completed in 1734. 

Friday, August 1, 2025

INDIA, JAIPUR: CITY TOUR

  December 29, 2025

We don't usually believe in quitting while the sun is still shining, so we ended the day with a city tour of Jaipur, led by a new guide booked through Audley Travel. His day job is teaching high school, and he was great!

Jaipur, by the way, is the capital and largest city in the northwestern state of Rajasthan. With a population of over three million, it is also the 10th largest city in the entire country. It is known as the "Pink City" due to the dominant pink color of the buildings in the old city. Along with Delhi and Agra, it is part of what is known as the "Golden Triangle" tourist circuit.

Jaipur appears in popular western culture. Paul McCartney wrote a song entitled "Riding into Jaipur" that is mostly Indian-themed sitar music with just a few words: "Riding into Jaipur, Riding through the night, Riding with my baby, Oh what a delight."  The city is also the setting for the 2011 movie The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel and its 2015 sequel, The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.

We began at the Hawa Mahal, or "Palace of Winds," built in 1799 from red and pink sandstone by the grandson of the founder of the city. The palace has 953 windows. The iconic view that we saw is actually the BACK of the palace!




It's always good to start off with a snack (or two), and our guide waited in line for this fried something  (I can't remember what), served to us on a used page from a child's workbook, and then another treat served on a leaf.