BELIZE 2026: XUNANTUNICH, FAREWELL TO BELIZE, AND HELLO GUATEMALA!

The next morning we got up early to catch the water taxi back to Belize City, where we met our driver/guide who drove us the 2.5 hours to the archaeological site of Xunantunich (pronounced zoo-NAAN-tuh-nitch or zhuh-nan-TOO-nitch, depending on whom you ask). 

About halfway through the long drive, our guide spotted a Jabiru, a large stork on Bob's lifer list, which means it was the first time he had seen one. It has an impressive wingspan of 7.5 to 10 feet. Bob was very excited and got some photos of it on the ground as well as flying. This one is my favorite.

Shortly before the archaeological site, we stopped at a terrific little restaurant in San Jose Succotz called Benny's Kitchen, known for serving authentic local cuisine.

I had pibil, pork cooked in a pit and served with corn tortillas. It was fabulous--my best meal of the trip. We think Bob had cow foot soup, but he can't remember if he liked it or not.

The site is on the other side of a river, and so our guide drove the vehicle onto this hand-cranked barge that hauled us and our vehicle across the water:

We shared the space with a few other vehicles, their passengers, and this bird who must have been just too tired to fly across.

 

View from the middle of the river:

Xunantunich was a Mayan residential area and ceremonial center c. 700-900 AD. Excavations started here in the 1890s. Archaeologists believe that the site was destroyed or at least badly damaged by an earthquake.

The site has intentionally not been fully excavated to both provide stability for the ruins and to allow visitors to see how the structures were covered by the forest after the site was abandoned.

We would see mounds of dirt like this:

. . . then walk around to see that the other side had been released from its blankets of dirt:

We were impressed by the size of the mahogany trees. They are the national tree of Belize, can grow to a height of 100 feet, and resist rot and termites. They tower over the other trees.

The excavated ruins encircle a large open area:

The most impressive structure is the 130-foot-tall pyramid El Castillo, The Castle.

Unlike other Mesoamerican ruins that are more developed, accessible, and tourist-heavy, we were allowed to climb the steps to the top of El Castillo. 

Watch out for the creepy-crawly creatures guarding The Castle!

At one time there was a frieze wrapping around this pyramid. The north and south friezes were eroded by the time the structure was discovered, but the east and west friezes have been covered with fiberglass replicas to preserve them.

We can relate to the "eroded by time" part.

Here is a view of the other frieze with what almost looks like an elephant head above it.

Note in the photo of us above that we are quite far up and there are no barriers between us and a deadly fall off the nearly vertical wall. I'm not one for vertigo/acrophobia, but I have to admit that this pyramid got to me. The further up we went, the scarier it got. There were never any handrails or guardrails.

Here is the view from the top:

Judy: BOB! YOU ARE TOO CLOSE TO THE EDGE!  

Bob: No one said anything about STANDING near the edge. 

My legs got a little shaky on the way down. 

Handrails! At last!

Just ten years ago, archaeologists discovered a royal tomb measuring 15 x 8 feet under one of the structures in Xunantunich. If I am remembering correctly, this is the entrance to that tomb. The remains of a muscular 20-year-old man were found lying among jade beads, animal bones, pottery, obsidian blades, and other treasures. Even more important was the discovery of two stone slabs in the tomb inscribed with hieroglyphics that tell the story of two competing dynasties around 600-700 AD.

Do I need to mention that Bob also did a little birding while we were there? He got some good photos, which you can see here.

One last good-bye to this amazing site, well worth a detour, even if you aren't a birder.

From Xunantunich we drove to the Melchor de Mencos border with Guatemala, where we went through a fairly complicated immigration process. First we had to exit Belize, and then we had to enter Guatemala. I think we had to pay for both privileges. At least there were not a lot of other people in line.

We were picked up by a new driver on the other side and spent two hours getting to the town of Flores (population 45,000), where Bob had booked a really nice eco-lodge for us, the Villa Maya. Sadly, we got there just as it was getting dark and left when it was still dark the next morning.

That was too bad because I really enjoy accommodations like this.

This is not a photograph and it is not the TV. It is the view out the window.

We were hungry and had just enough time for dinner, which was beautiful but not particularly memorable--although maybe we were just too tired to enjoy it.

During the night we heard what sounded like otherworldly screams. I suggested it might be howler monkeys, which Bob discounted, but which it turned out to be afterall.