GUATEMALA 2026: ANTIGUA

 March 21, 2026

Our last full day in Guatemala was spent in Antigua, which served as the capital from 1543 to 1773 when the country was part of the Kingdom of Spain. As a result, it is full of Spanish Baroque architecture and Old World charm and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Actually, Bob left early in the morning for a birding expedition, but I figured I could explore the Old Town area around our hotel by myself while he was gone. While I was looking for breakfast, I wandered into this park a few blocks from our hotel.

The "Fountain of the Sirens" was added in 1738. The four bare-chested women that are part of the fountain are quite eye-popping. It is no suprise that today the park is still a hub of activity, and when I was there, it was full of vendors, musicians, and tourists.

I enjoyed some pastries and wandered back towards our hotel. Shops across the cobblestone street from our room were just beginning to open. The street vendors were just starting to set up as well. Check out this guy bringing in an assortment of hats!

Before long, there was plenty of commerce going on. Under that pile of textiles is a little Guatemalan grandma selling her wares.

UGANDA: KIDEPO VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, DAY 2 - A WALKING SAFARI AND VILLAGE PEOPLE

 July 24, 2025

After breakfast we picked up Zachary at the military base and then drove to an area with a large open savannah. Zachary, Bob, Ella, and I got out of the jeep and started a walking safari and nature walk, something I am sure we would not have dared to do on our own (or without Zachary's rifle).

It didn't help that they first thing we came across was this:

One of my favorite African trees is the Candelabra Tree, a succulent that Zachary warned us not to touch as its sap can be a poisonous irritant. It stood out, not just because it was the only tree around, but because it didn't look like a typical leafy tree. There is no softness about this tree. Its sharp spines testify that it can survive the dry season. It also seems ancient, and it has the aura of an archetypal sentinel standing in the open cathedral of the savannah. 

We came across a large herd of grazing Cape buffalo that took a special interest in our tiny group of four people.  One rifle is no match for a stampeding herd of Cape buffalo, I thought to myself. But Zachary didn't seem to be at all concerned.

             

WE were concerned, however, or at least a trifle nervous. They kept inching closer and closer to us, and the only tree within running distance was that candelabra tree with the poisonous sap and spiny leaves!

UGANDA: KIDEPO VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, DAY 1 - SAFARI DRIVE

 July 23, 2025

We woke up at 6:00 a.m. and ate breakfast at 6:30. Breakfast typically consisted of our choice of eggs, bacon, sausage, fresh fruit, cereals, toast, juice, and hot chocolate (for Ella, who was obsessed with it and had it almost every day of our trip no matter how hot the weather was). 

By 7:00 we were on our way to pick up a national park ranger named Zachary who had been assigned to accompany us anytime we were in the park. We passed by a large herd of Cape buffalo, one of Africa's "Big Five" game animals.

They reminded me a lot of a herd of American bison.

We had to go through this river to get to the military base where we were picking up Zachary and then again at the end of the day to drop him off:

Ella, as always, took it all in stride. She is a great traveler.

INDONESIA - SUMATRA: TANGKAHAN, PART II, JUNGLE WALK

 July 2, 2023

We woke up early on our second day in Tangkahan, had breakfast in the lodge, and headed out on a jungle walk with our local guide. To get to the jungle, we had to first ford the river. Luckily, it was relatively shallow. The water was very clear, but the bottom was rocky. It wasn't a very comfortable walk for us, but our local guide Suker seemed to be walking on pillows.

After putting our shoes and socks back on, we headed into the dense, wet foliage. Suker stopped often to point out interesting plants or to tell us facts about the jungle.

NEW YORK CITY: NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM THE DONALD JUDD STUDIO AND HOME

 May 2022

Andrew suggested two more places for us to visit while he and Michaela were at work. The first was the American Museum of Natural History (AMNH) on Manhattan's Upper West Side across from Central Park. 

The AMNH campus is HUGE. There are 20 interconnected buildings and 2.5 million square feet of space. Obviously, we weren't going to be able to see it all, so we had to be choosy about where to go. On Andrew's recommendation, we headed for a new insect exhibit, the "Insectarium."

This is the "Pollination Portal," which shows how pollination works.

I loved the butterfly displays. We've recently traveled to several tropical areas where the butterflies are much more plentiful than they are in my desert area, and I have become more interested in the many varieties.

The magnifying glass means you can spin the wheel and look at butterflies and bugs up close.

The huge model of multiple combs of a beehive is unique.

ECUADOR: CAJAS NATIONAL PARK AND THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE

 March 27, 2022

I mentioned in a previous post that Cuenca means "basin" in Spanish. What makes Cuenca a basin are the tall Andes Mountains that surround it. Our guide Javier took us on a drive high into the Andes to visit Cajas National Park and the Continental Divide. The name Cajas is derived from the Quichua word cassa, meaning "gateway to the snowy mountains." An alternate meaning is "cold." The average temperature is about 55° F (not that cold), and the average rainfall is about 42 inches. That's pretty warm for the elevation, but Javier reminded us that we were pretty close to the equator, and the snow level is 16,000 feet!

Buenos días, Señor. Como está usted?

The park covers about 110 square miles and is between 10,170 and 14,600 feet above sea level. We stopped at an area called Toreadora, or "bullfighter." 

I suppose this serene, stunningly beautiful lake somewhat resembles a bullring--it is round and has sloping slides that somewhat resemble bleachers. 

ECUADOR, GALAPAGOS ISLANDS: ISABELA ISLAND - TAGUS COVE HIKE

March 24, 2022, Morning and Lunch

During the night our catamaran left Fernandina Island and returned to Isabela Island, dropping anchor just off Tagus Cove on the northwestern coast of the island.

We got up early for a 6:00 AM breakfast, and by 7:00 we were in pangas on our way to a dry landing at Tagus Cove.

Tagus Cove was visited by Charles Darwin in 1835 and has always been a hideout for pirates, whalers, and other sea voyagers. The cove gets its name from a British ship, the Tagus, that anchored there in 1814 looking for some of the giant tortoises to replenish their food supply.

Starting in the early 19th century, visitors to this site began carving their name and the year into the cliff. (It just takes one to start a trend.) 

The oldest is this one: 1836.

The practice was outlawed when the Galapagos National Park was established in 1959-1960, although I see "Feb 1974 Oceana" on the right. Clearly this was before tourists had to be accompanied by a naturalist!

NEW YORK: ITHACA, CORNELL UNIVERSITY SITES, AND RETURNING TO NYC

 July 28, 2021

We spent our last day of sightseeing in Upstate New York in Ithaca, home to Cornell University.

We started out with a delicious vegan lunch at Maru Ramen.

I love how colorful each dish is. Everything was very good.

After lunch we drove to the Sapsucker Woods Sanctuary, which is part of the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology. It is a free, 220-acre natural habitat for the study of birds.

Two sculptures are near the entrance. The first is this bronze of a passenger pigeon, almost spirt-like in concept.

I learned a lot from the onsite information:

NEW YORK: KAATERSKILL FALLS

 July 25, 2021

We rented an Airbnb in Kingston, New York, for a couple of nights. It turned out to be a brand new house built specifically to be rented out. We could even smell the fresh paint. It was perfect for the four of us. 

Having an equipped kitchen was very important . . .

. . . as were the extensive woods and trails located behind the house, which produced, among other things, this:

NEW YORK: THOMAS COLE HISTORIC SITE, THE HUDSON RIVER VALLEY, FREDERIC CHURCH'S OLANA, AND PEEKAMOOSE RESTAURANT

July 24, 2021

We continued to make our way north, farther and farther away from the wonderful craziness of New York City. Our next stop was the Thomas Cole National Historic Site. 

Thomas Cole (1801-1848) is considered to be the father of American landscape painting as well as the founder of the Hudson River School of Art.

His home in the Catskill region has been preserved and restored and is now a national landmark.

I got a kick out of these signs.  I can see that second one still being taped to the wall four or five years from now.

My favorite thing on the property was this purple gazebo with its fancy Victorian sofa.

NEW YORK : STORM KING ART CENTER

 July 24, 2021

On our third day in New York, we picked up a car at JFK, thinking that would make it easy to turn it in when it was time to go back to California (oh, we were so wrong, but more on that later), and we got on the road to go "upstate." ("Upstate" refers to almost all of the geographical region of New York--everything but the metropolitan area of New York City.) It was a Saturday morning and traffic was fairly light, especially by NYC standards.

 We were amazed by how quickly we left the city behind. Within an hour, we were traveling on forest-lined highways with big breaks between cities.

Our first destination was Storm King Art Center (marked by the red ballooon), about 70 miles upstate from JFK Airport (marked by a red star).

Wow, if you haven't heard of this place (as I had not), pay attention and get yourself there on your next trip to New York. It is amazing! This outdoor art museum, containing perhaps the largest collection of contemporary outdoor sculptures in the United States, was founded in 1960 and covers 500 acres. We're not talking minor artists no one has heard of. The most prominent sculptors of the 20th and 21st centuries are represented.

The Arch (1975) was created by Alexander Calder just one year before his death. There is an open arch you can walk through on the other side, but apparently I liked this view better! It is one of the first things we saw after driving into the grounds.

NEW YORK CITY: GREEN-WOOD CEMETERY (BROOKLYN)

 July 22, 2021

Our son knows I like cemeteries, and I know he likes mushroom hunting, and we figured those two interests could converge. Old cemeteries are known not just for their history and architecture, but also for their old trees, which often harbor companion fungi. We planned an afternoon walk through Brooklyn's Green-Wood Cemetery to satisfy both of our interests.

Green-Wood Cemetery was founded in 1838 when the city cemeteries began to become overcrowded. It predated both Central Park and Prospect Park. Today it comprises 478 acres and contains about 600,000 "permanent residents" and 7,000 trees.  It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 2006.

Among the famous people buried here are musician Leonard Bernstain; artists Louis Comfort Tiffany, George Catlin, and Jean-Michel Basquiat; politician Boss Tweed; newspaperman Horace Greeley; the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher; NY Governor DeWitt Clinton, Nathaniel Currier and James Merritt Ives ("Currier and Ives"); Elias Howe (sewing machine inventor); Walter Hunt (safety pin inventor); Frank Morgan (the wizard in the movie The Wizard of  Oz); Morse code inventor Samuel Morse; cabinet maker Duncan Phyfe, Teddy Roosevelt's first wife Alice, his mother Martha, his father Theodore, and his uncle Robert; toy store founder F. A. O. Schwarz; and Henry Steinway and his son William of Steinway piano fame. Fifty victims of the September 11 attacks are also buried here.

The main entrance to the cemetery is a gothic arch perfect for a cemetery. It was built in 1861-65.

Just as the Bronx Zoo's "Zoo Center" reminded me of Disneyland's Sleeping Beauty Castle, so too did this magnificent gate--except the scary movie version. I'd love to visit this spot on Halloween.

Sculpted scenes above the entrances depict Biblical scenes of death and resurrection.