UGANDA: KIDEPO VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, DAY 2 - A WALKING SAFARI AND VILLAGE PEOPLE

 July 24, 2025

After breakfast we picked up Zachary at the military base and then drove to an area with a large open savannah. Zachary, Bob, Ella, and I got out of the jeep and started a walking safari and nature walk, something I am sure we would not have dared to do on our own (or without Zachary's rifle).

It didn't help that they first thing we came across was this:

One of my favorite African trees is the Candelabra Tree, a succulent that Zachary warned us not to touch as its sap can be a poisonous irritant. It stood out, not just because it was the only tree around, but because it didn't look like a typical leafy tree. There is no softness about this tree. Its sharp spines testify that it can survive the dry season. It also seems ancient, and it has the aura of an archetypal sentinel standing in the open cathedral of the savannah. 

We came across a large herd of grazing Cape buffalo that took a special interest in our tiny group of four people.  One rifle is no match for a stampeding herd of Cape buffalo, I thought to myself. But Zachary didn't seem to be at all concerned.

             

WE were concerned, however, or at least a trifle nervous. They kept inching closer and closer to us, and the only tree within running distance was that candelabra tree with the poisonous sap and spiny leaves!

UGANDA: MURCHISON FALLS AND PAKUBA SAFARI LODGE

 July 21, 2025

We drove from the women's Booma Co-op to pick up Bob from his boatride, which was a drive of about an hour and ten minutes.  The distances are actually not that long in the park, but the primitive dirt roads slow things down a lot. From the dock we drove to Murchison Falls, the site for which the park is named. 

We were told that Murchison Falls is the most powerful waterfall in the world if measuring pressure. It is located on what is known as the White Nile, which is one of the two tributaries of the Nile (along with the larger Blue Nile). In Uganda, it is known as the Victoria Nile from where it begins at the northern end of Lake Victoria and until it reaches Lake Albert, and then after than it is called the Albert Nile until it reaches the border with South Sudan. 

Just before it reaches Lake Albert, the river is compressed dramatically by a gorge that at one time was only seven meters wide, but that has significantly expanded over time due to erosion. At that point it plunges 140 feet to the river below, where it quickly flattens out. It makes for a very dramatic display of drenching spray and thunderous roaring.

The first Europeans to see the falls, Samuel and Florence Baker, named them after Roderick Murchison, the President of the Royal Geographical Society.

When we first arrived, were competing for a good view with a group of students from what first appeared to be an all-girl high school on a field trip. We did see some boys, however. I think they were just letting the girls go to the viewing platform first. I loved their dresses and found it interesting that they all had shaved heads.

UGANDA 2025: MURCHISON FALLS NATIONAL PARK, SAFARI DRIVE

July 20-21, 2025

We got to the entrance of Murchison Falls National Park at 6:45 p.m., just 15 minutes before the gates closed for the night. However, they did a ridiculous amount of paperwork that included making copies of our passports (which we later learned was standard for all national parks in Uganda). It took 25 minutes, and we didn't actually go through the gates until 7:10.

Not too far in we saw our first baboons walking down the road, kind of like an escort or welcoming committee.

A little later on, we saw an eagle owl at the side of the road that flew off when we drove by and then a mongoose that scampered across the road, both too fast for us to get a picture.

The highlight of the 45-minute-long drive through the park to our lodge was a huge wet hippo standing in the middle of the road facing oncoming traffic. The car in front of us wouldn't pass by it on the side, even though there appeared to be room. Apparently, hippos are known to charge cars. As cute as they are, they are mean dudes.

After a while, a boda-boda (motorcycle) came by and cautiously passed the hippo on the side. Shortly after that, a ranger drove up and directed us to turn off our car lights. He turned his flashlight beam to the far side of the road, and the hippo turned towards it like a moth to a flame. Though he still stood in the road, we could at least drive past his backside where he might not notice us.