KHUJAND, TAJIKISTAN: PART 2, MONUMENTS TO LENIN AND SOMONI

Russia conquered most of Central Asia in the 19th century, and by 1885 Tajikistan was completely controlled by Russia or its satellites. After the Russian Revolution in 1917, the Bolsheviks and Lenin wrenched any semblance of self-governance away from the locals, conducted a couple of purges, and imposed harsh laws and restrictions that led to famine and violence.

Even after the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1991 and the subsequent independence of Tajikistan, the shadow of Lenin hung over the country for many years.

And so of COURSE there is an oversized monument to Lenin in Khujand. It was erected in 1974 on the 50th anniversary of Lenin's death because, you know, it's important to memorialize the guy who took over your country and outlawed your religion and co-opted your farms and starved your people.

This 36-foot-tall statue on the 36-foot-tall base is the largest statue of Lenin in Central Asia. (Some sources say it is the largest in the world,)

But 20 years after the break-up of the Soviet Union, the Tajiks finally decided Lenin's days were over, and they sort of got even.  They dismantled Lenin's statue during the night and re-assembled it on the edge of town in a low-lying, low-visibility, scrubby park called Victory Field. Now instead of surveying the center of commerce in downtown Khujand, Vladimir rules over a bunch of old posters of war heroes lining a quiet sidewalk leading to an uninspiring war memorial. It gives new meaning to the phrase "social outcast."

Walking away from Lenin . . . 

 to the war memorial . . . 

. . . and back to Lenin. That's it, folks.

At least there are some pretty (thorny) flowers in the foreground:

So what replaced Lenin on his erstwhile prominent perch in the center of the city? An even bigger, more elaborate statue of Ismoil Somoni (aka Ismail Samani or Isma'il ibn Ahmad), the emir who governed the Saminid Empire from 892-907 AD and who is credited with eschewing Zoroastrianism in favor of Islam. I'm pretty sure V. Lenin would not approve.

Instead of a hammer and sickle by his side, Somoni is flanked by two golden lions:

This richly adorned and very regal ruler appears to be the antithesis of Lenin. He was known for being just, compassionate, and ethical. These days he is considered the Father of the Tajik Nation, and the Tajiks have even named their currency after him: the somoni. 

There is something about him that looks familiar:

Somoni stands at the top of a parallel set of humongous grand staircases separated by a waterfall. At the base of the stairs is a round courtyard surrounded by intricate mosaic murals. (Those Tajiks do love their mosaic murals.) They include scenes from the history of the country and the culture of its people. The variety of theme and design is astonishing:

These last two are from my favorite wall--the Soviet tribute. It includes a Soviet cosmonaut (center):

. . . and a hammer and sickle:

I'm pretty sure all of these--even the last ones--have been added since Lenin's ignominious relocation. Again, he would not approve.