March 19-20, 2026
We had an hour to kill in Flores in the afternoon before going to the airport. We had lunch in non-remarkable restaurant located on a floating dock, then walked around a bit near the seafront. Flores primarily exists these days as a jumping off point for Mayan ruins like Tikal, and yet it has a population over 45,000, ten times the size of the town I grew up in. The neighborhood around the restaurant was charming, and we even saw what appeared to be a working pay phone, something I haven't seen in years.
The Mundo Maya International Airport, just outside the city center, is very small--one small cafe, one large seating area, and one shop. Still, it is Guatemala's second-busiest airport.
I tried to get Bob interested in the birds flying around inside the terminal, but he wasn't buying it.
It was our first time, and probably will be our only time, on TAG Airlines (TAG = Transportes Aéreos Guatemaltecos):
The flight was short and uneventful. We were met at the airport by a driver who took us to our hotel about 30 miles away in Antiqua. (We had been told NOT to stay in Guatemala City.) The traffic was horrid and the drive took almost two hours.
Gas cost about $4.75/gallon in Guatemala, similar to what it was in California at the time, but the average income in California is more than ten times what it is in Guatemala, so those prices have to have an enormous impact on the average citizen. Also, I was shocked by the line-up of American fast food on our way into the city. How can the average Guatemalan afford the prices at these places?
Our plan was to spend the day at a few of the villages on the far side of Lake Atitlán, a volcanic crater that is the deepest lake in Central America. Two of the three volcanoes that surround its shores are pictured below: Tolimán and San Pedro volcanoes.
We could see what looked like a sizable village as we approach the shore.
Apparently, our primary reason for stopping here was to visit a cacao factory/shop. We watched a demonstration (maybe the fourth or fifth we've seen on our travels) and got to sample all kinds of products. I bought a few bars to take home, and I have to say it is some of the worst chocolate I've had. It was very grainy, and perhaps that is because of the heat, but I was not impressed with the flavor either.
We saw one woman standing in the shallows and thought she might be doing laundry, but it turns out she was washing her hair. Could it be that many homes do not have running water, even for personal hygiene?
We had made some friends on the tour--a young man from Hungary and a couple from Sweden, all with impeccable English. We got on the topic of American politics, and they expressed their bewilderment at why the U.S. system of government can not restrain our current president. We wonder the same thing.
Back on the boat, we motored past this giant metal crab on the shore. Cueva del Cangrejo (Crab Cave) is a tourist lookout area in San Pedro. The top is a large observation platform.
It doesn't seem to be drawing a lot of tourists.
Mayan bees are stingless, tiny (the size of a gnat0, and sacred to the locals. One hive of these tiny insects yields only 1 to 2 liters of honey a year. Their honey, which is thin and runny, is used by native healers to treat eye cataracts, respiratory issues, wounds, and burns.
I loved it. We have an umbrella alley like this in my town, and it brings in the tourists just like this street does!
All the women we saw, even those walking down the streets, wore the traditional Guatemalan skirt and belt.
After the demonstration, we took a walk through the colorful, exhuberant village of San Juan.
There are many charming streets that could positively compare to those in a European city.
San Juan is known for its many murals. Here are a few:
The villages of Lake Atitlán have a very distinct indigenous vibe. Take, for example, this handcrafted "Torito" bull mask placed over the head of a child-sized mannequin.
Our next stop was at a textile cooperative. Guatemala is known for its handwoven textiles. First, we learned about how the yarn is made using traditional manual tools.
Natural dyes are created from a variety of plants, and the color range is quite extraordinary.
There is something quite moving about the simple figures of Jesus and the cross, so different from the cathedrals of Europe. I love the platforms ringed with what looks like sheaves of wheat.
This is an interesting depiction of an as of yet unresurrected Christ with his crown of thorns but already clothed in regal red robes.
Back outside, we had a perfect view of the "Indian Nose" mountain peak, also known as Rostro Maya, rising over Lake Atitlán. The 7,335-foot-tall peak is a sacred ceremonial site for the Mayans.
Its vibe is similar to the church we visited earlier in the day--swaths of silky purple fabric draped from wall to wall and dangling from the ceiling.
A Christ with a haunted look in his eyes carries his cross.
Well, it was time to return to the dock to catch our watertaxi across Lake Atitlán and then a ride to our hotel in Antigua. There is no better way to get to the dock fast than by tuk-tuk, the cheap three-wheeled vehicles that serve as taxis in the narrow roads of the lake's villages. However, riding in one is not for the faint of heart. The drivers like to maximize their profits by racing to the destinations, and veering off the main roads into even narrower alleys and top speed is a common thing.
This delightful young woman showed us the simple tools she uses to create the traditional colors and patterns used in the local people's clothing, table runners, and other textiles.
I have a weakness for beautiful fabrics in foreign countries, and before we left on this trip I told Bob not to let me buy any fabric/textile. He failed in his assignment. Of course, he bought a runner himself later in Antigua.
We had a little time to wander and found ourselves at the Catholic Church of San Juan La Laguna. Holy Week was still a week away, but the locals were definitely in an anticipatory mode. This church was draped in rich purple, both outside and inside.
Christ is at the center of this faith, at least in this church.
Back outside, we had a perfect view of the "Indian Nose" mountain peak, also known as Rostro Maya, rising over Lake Atitlán. The 7,335-foot-tall peak is a sacred ceremonial site for the Mayans.
Time for lunch.
Bob had a fish baked on a spit and served with mussels and lemonade.
I had a pepián de res, a pretty good stewed beef dish.
That is San Pedro Volcano in the background, partially shrouded by clouds. It is a respectable 9,908 feet tall and can be hiked to the top and back in about six hours.
Hey! It's even better with this cute couple in front of it!
And here we are with our new friends from Hungary and Sweden.
Our penultimate stop was the Parochial Church of Santiago Apostol in Santiago.
Multiple crucifixes focus on Christ's suffering.
I love this figure of Christ in his tomb wrapped in a stunning peacock quilt and a traditional Guatemalan textile head scarf.
If there was a depiction of the resurrection, I did not see it. I would love to see the Guatemalan depiction of that glorious event.
In addition to these depictions of Chirst, shelves lining the perimeter of the chapel hold a variety of disparate figures. Two of my favorites are St. Michael the Archangel standing over the devil (left) and Jospeh, Mary, and the young boy Jesus wrapped in a woven blanket of local Guatemalan design (right).
Traditional wooden saint statues are clothed in brightly colored garments that are occasionally changed by members of the local community.
And finally, one of the most interesting depictions of the Holy Trinity I have ever seen (left). God the Father supports the cross holding Jesus Christ, which is in turn topped by the dove that represents the Holy Spirit. And don't miss the triangle on top of God's head with the all-seeing eye that is wrapped in a Guatemalan textile. Near the exit we pass what I think is another depiction of Christ holding up two fingers in blessing and/or representing his dual nature as man and god. Of course the best part of this statue is that green cone of grasses on his head in place of a halo. This particular Catholic church has done an amazing job of melding traditional Christianity and traditional Mayan religious traditions.
Strange as those images are (to me, at least), the strangest blend of Catholicism and local customs I've ever seen has to be the Shrine of Maximón, also known as Rilaj Mam ("the great grandfather"), a Mayan deity. The shrine is marked only by a sign (see below) that directs visitors down a very narrow alley and into a tiny room that serves as a temporary shrine.
The crudely carved wooden statue is guarded and cared for 24 hours a day by a local indigenous group called the Cofradía (Brotherhood). When we visited, the statue was flanked by three of these guards. They keep the visitors in line, replace the devotional candles as needed, and handle daily rituals. The effigy only stays in one place for a year before it is moved to another place owned by someone in the brotherhood.
No photos are allowed in the shrine itself, but there are plenty on the internet, including this one from here:
The Maximón that we saw (apparently there are twelve in various locations) had layers of men's ties around his neck and a cigar in his mouth, just like the one above. Lit candles illuminate the effigy, and incense makes the tiny room hard to stay in for very long.
I have to say that I am surprised and impressed and aghast that the Catholic church allows this practice to continue within its membership. SO bizarre!
Well, it was time to return to the dock to catch our watertaxi across Lake Atitlán and then a ride to our hotel in Antigua. There is no better way to get to the dock fast than by tuk-tuk, the cheap three-wheeled vehicles that serve as taxis in the narrow roads of the lake's villages. However, riding in one is not for the faint of heart. The drivers like to maximize their profits by racing to the destinations, and veering off the main roads into even narrower alleys and top speed is a common thing.
We made it. Phew.
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